Lewis and Clark Trail

Saturday, September 30, 2006

1 September 2006 – Wolf Point, MT to Alexander, ND

Shortly after I left Wolf Point, Route 2 turned into a cracked, bumpy, crud of a road – for the next 80 miles. Yes, that is an eight with a zero after it. In addition, the winds have turned. I am heading into winds that vary from head to cross and the going is pretty tough. I am beginning to regret my previous two days of second guessing myself at the end of the day. I actually set three goals for today. My first goal was Fairview, MT at about 100 miles. My intermediate goal was Alexander, ND at about 122 miles. My far goal was Watford City, ND at about 140 miles. I got to Fairview and thought I could get to Alexander but not to Watford City. Of course, I turned right into headwinds after making that decision. I pushed on and did make it.

As I rolled into Alexander, I heard country and western music an saw a chuck wagon and lots of people walking around the town with beers in their hands. It is beginning to look like I made the right decision in pushing on to Alexander. I spy the local sheriff and ask what is going on. Apparently, this is the weekend that Alexander celebrates its Old Settler’s Weekend. So there are a lot of “Old Settlers” in town. The town is pretty full but he tells me that I can camp in the town park but I should park at the edge so I don’t interfere with the set-up of booths tomorrow morning. I Pitched my tent next to some teepee frames and went off to find dinner. The café is closed as is the grocery store and I don’t have something for dinner so I went to the local bar for a pretty unsatisfying burger and fries. There is no such thing as a non-smoking section in this part of the country.

When I returned to my tent, I found it surrounded by a group of Mandan-Hidatsa Indians from the Fort Berthold Reservation (New Town). They asked me to move so they could finish putting up their teepee without having to work around me. I did so and then watched them put the cloth covering on (it is traditionally a bison skin but they are using cloth). The freams are constructed by lashing three lodge poles together, lifting them and then spreading them. These form the rearmost pole and the primary poles that go on each side of what will ultimately be the door. A rope of rawhide is left attached to the three lodgpoles and then more poles are leaned up against the original poles and the rawhide is wrapped around them from the ground. The Indians have sewn pockets into the cloth covering and they put two long poles into the pockets and use the poles to lift the covering onto the frame of lodge poles. Once the top is up high enough, they pull the sides around and then fasten the flaps closed with sticks or bones. They then stake the sides down. The hole in the top can be closed somewhat by pulling on long strings (traditionally rawhide) to pull the top flaps toward one another.

I called Tac and went to bed. I am glad I bought some ear plugs back in Missoula. I slept well but it was cold.

31 August 2006 – Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs, MT to Wolf Point, MT

I woke up and packed my bags. Winds are still with me. I stopped at the Sleeping Buffalo rock to take a picture. This is an example of some boulders that were dropped by retreating glaciers that, from a distance, looks like a herd of sleeping buffalo. Native Americans even carved some features into the rocks to make them seem even more like sleeping bison. Headed east toward Wolf Point. It is a chilly day as the cool front responsible for the winds continues to drop the temperature. I had a flat tire and rode through ten miles of road construction but still covered 104 miles in 5.5 hours. I once again struggle with the prospect of making more miles today as I am finished with my goal at 2:30.

Friday, September 29, 2006

30 August 2006 – Chinook, MT, to Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs, MT

I woke up at 7:00 and was on the bike by 8:30. Headed east from Chinook and noticed the tail wind was helping me out. Shortly after leaving Chinook, I guy pulled up next to me and started asking me about my trip. His name is John Tomaska and he was riding a Trek 520. He is traveling about 25 mph. We chatted for a half hour and it became apparent he was interested in riding faster than I so I told him to go ahead. I then endeavored to keep him in sight the remainder of the day. He slowly pulls away from me and I eventually lose sight of him but meet up with him again at the grocery store in Malta. It took me 3.5 hours to go 70 miles. Incredible. I also met up with the couple from Chinook the night before. They had already left Chinook when I woke up. We all headed out and were soon strung out over the distance between Malta and Sleeping Buffalo Hot Springs (SBHS). The couple said they were going to try to make it to Linsdale. I told them I did not think there was camping there and the next verified camping was 50 miles past SBHS. Off we went with a killer tail wind. I passed a solo female tourer who was going west and had that shell-shocked look of someone biking all day into 20 mph headwinds. She was headed for Seattle. I got to SBHS (89.9 miles) in five hours. It was an amazing day of riding.

John Tomaska and I camped there and took advantage of the hot springs. This is a really depressing place. Billed as a resort it seems like someplace the Griswolds would have stopped on their way to Wally World. The water smells like rotten eggs (common to hot springs) and there is an outdoor pool (long since funct) with a water slide, etc. but the infrastructure is all crumbling. Still, a nice lawn to camp on underneath some trees (see photos).

I struggled with the decision of going on to the next stopping point or stopping here and decided not to chance it.

29 August 2006 – Ft. Benton, MT to Chinook, MT

Woke up and packed and went to the grocery store to get food for tonight. Snapped a photo of the Shep statue. Shep is a legendary dog who waited faithfully but in vain for his owner to return from a river trip and was eventually adopted by the entire town. He is buried out of town by the airport and they erected a statue in his honor right on the riverfront. I rode my bike across an old bridge over the Missouri River that is now a foot bridge to a small park with some faux teepees. The river here looks nothing like the river as it passes through Kansas City. It is broad and fast flowing but still clear with a rocky bottom. I suppose that it picks up sediments after it gets more out into the plains. I snapped a photo of the Lewis and Clark statue (similar in stature to Shep the dog, although stuck at the end of town) and headed out of town.

The scenery is now very much Great Plains. I am heading along the route Lewis took while exploring the headwaters of the Maria’s River (named after one of Lewis’ cousins). I had to climb a big hill that Lewis used to get the lay of the land. A nice view (see photo) of seemingly endless plains. I reached the town of Havre feeling pretty tired but decided to push on to Chinook. I saw 7 dead ring-necked pheasants in the 20 miles between Havre and Chinook as well as 20+ dead European starlings (no great loss in either case). I have been trying to outrun a cold front that is supposed to bring rains. I can see the bank of clouds behind me the entire way from Havre to Chinook. I also alternate between headwinds and tailwinds as I move in and out of the frontal boundary. That is how distinct the frontal boundary is here.

I got to the public park in Chinook too late to get a shower at the swimming pool next door. There was a couple there who were coming from central Washington via Glacier National Park (found out later they were celebrating their 25th anniversary with a long bike tour). I had to call Tac from a pay phone then returned to the park, cooked some canned ravioli and went to bed.

27 September 2006 - I am finished!!!

Hello Everyone.

I finished the trip by travelling to St. Louis from Liberty from Sept. 20 - Sept. 23. On Monday, Sept. 25, Linda Lehrbaum (a friend and colleague from Kansas City WildLands) drove me back up to Mondamin, Iowa and I rode from there to Liberty, arriving at 1:30 on Wednesday. Along the way I was hit by a car in Marshall, Missouri, met the descendants of William Clark, camped with some re-enactors in St. Charles and just had a great time at the 200th anniversary of the return of Lewis and Clark celebration at the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial.

I am converting my notes to the computer and am posting the results over the next several days. So they should come out in order except for the occasional party update (see below).

Now that I am finished, we are having a party. On Saturday, October 14th, beginning at 7:00 PM, we will have a get together for anyone who wants to attend. I will show some slides and tell a few stories that will hopefully not bore you too much and then I'll just set the computer to scroll through photos from the trip and people can chat and ask questions of me. We will try to have snacks related to the Lewis and Clark Expedition (no dog and horse is now banned) and if you have a pioneer-style dish you would like to bring, we would welcome it. Also, whatever unusual drinks you want would be good as we will only have standard things like beer, wine, sodas and maybe some whiskey (in honor of Lewis and Clark). If you are planning on coming, let me know via email (klawinskip@william.jewell.edu) so we can move the venue if lts of people are coming. Right now we are planning it at our house. When I get your email, I'll send you the address if you haven't already been to our place. If we change the venue, I can also email you and tell you where we will be.

Monday, September 18, 2006

28 August 2006


I woke up this morning and went to the Lewis and Clark Interpretive Center in Great Falls. It is right on the river and it was excellent. Lewis and Clark thought they would portage the five falls in a day. They were here for five and a half weeks. It makes me feel good about my own progress. Unfortunately it had a lot of information that I now know. It even had some quotes from the journals that I had read the night before. It had an excellent display on how to calculate longitude and latitude (see earlier post) and an excellent diorama depicting what it must have been like making the portage (see photo). They constructed wheels for the carts for the dugout canoes from cross sections of cottonwood trees. There is a bike trail that goes to the center and it continues on down the river so you can visit all the falls. They are now all dammed to generate electricity (more on dams and economics later).

My favorite quote from the entire exhibit follows:

“We were happy when he [the white man] first came. We first thought he came from the light; but he comes…not like the dawn of morning. He comes like a day that has passed, and night enters our future with him” Charlot, Selíš (Salish) Chief

After the interpretive center, I attempted to find an internet spot. The public libraries in a town of any size are filled with people without internet service trying to find jobs, etc. I feel a little guilty taking up a spot just to blog. I tried another place (The Worx) that advertised on a billboard but it does not open until 2:00 PM. I had picked up a brochure about Fort Benton and while I ate lunch, I noticed that it had the number for the public library. I phoned and learned that they were open until 8:00. Forty miles should only take about 4 hours so I hopped on the bike and headed out after a nice meatball sub at Montana Subs on 0th Street.

I headed up to the Charles Russell Museum on my way out of town. Russell came to Montana to become a cowboy in the 1880s and ended up becoming one but, more famously, the artist of the Western experience of the late 19th Century. He was famous for his watercolor paintings, bronzes and sketches of cowboys, Native Americans and situations connected to these two groups. After overdosing on Western art, I headed for Fort Benton. I got there at about 4:30 PM and set up camp at the Chouteau County Fairgrounds. Excellent bathrooms and showers. I am the only tent camper with two RVs. I then went to the library and blogged like mad. Very time consuming. I left my address with the librarian.

27 August 2006 - On Music

I could have put this anywhere but I have been thinking about this for the last 2500 miles so...

On Music

I broke my iPod on my first full day in Washington State on an 82 mile stretch of road where you had to make the 82 miles or sleep on the side of the road. I stopped to talk to two guys doing some GPS surveying. I had seen a warning sign earlier warning of an Ecology Crew ahead and wanted to ask them if they were the Ecology Crew. They informed me what they were doing and told me that Ecology Crews pick up trash. I forgot to take my left foot out of the clips and lost my balance while talking to them and fell on the iPod. Lesson learned: always take feet off of the pedals when stopped.

The iPod functioned for about another 500 miles and then konked out for good. I was then relegated to AM/FM radio for the remainder of the trip. At the time of the iPod’s demise, I was listening on shuffle and learned some things about music. The following statements are mainly my own preferences but there are some things that I think will prove to be universal.
First. What is some of the worst music to listen to while bicycling across the United States. In the number 3 worst possible music spot: Mike and the Mechanics’ “The Living Years”. This is a song about the regrets of not communicating with your father, having him die and then not getting to tell him all the things that have been on your heart for all those living years. If you are a male, you don’t want to listen to this. Especially if you and your father did not always get along well. At number 2 we have the Eagles’ “Hotel California”. I know that classic rock pundits are now throwing their computers into the fireplace but its true. When you are traveling down the road and not absolutely sure where you will be sleeping, you don’t want to hear a ballad about a guy who checks into a demonic hotel where you can check out but you can never leave. You want a comfortable spot under a tree that is quiet with a bathroom nearby and an early start the next morning. This is NOT what you will get at the Hotel California. In the number 1, all time worst possible bicycle touring song spot: America’s “Horse With No Name”. You are basically on a steel horse (Bon Jovi knows about being a cowboy on a steel horse) because you make about the same time as you would if you were riding a horse. You don’t want to be on the horse in a desert for so long that you forget your name. Nor do you want to spend a significant amount of that time listening to the inane lyrics of this song that finds its way onto stations that play music “from the 70s, 80s, 90s and today” (imagine the voice of Don LaFontaine). What did they mean when they penned the following lyrics: “I've been through the desert on a horse with no name. It felt good to be out of the rain. In the desert, you can't remember your name 'cause there ain't no one for to give you no pain.”
Now that I have laid down the worst tracks possible, what are some things I have really enjoyed. First, from the iPod. When taking a cross country bicycle trip where one of your goals is to get in touch with the history and the landscape, there are certain artists who just naturally fit.

Johnny Cash. He rests at the very foundations of rock and roll and country at the point where these two genres parted ways (he opened for Elvis’ first tour) to the long term detriment of both. He sang ballads that dated from the experiences of the people who participated in the westward expansion that followed Lewis and Clark. Many of the songs off the “Johnny Cash Sings Ballads of the True West” album go right along with this type of trip. “The Road to Kaintuck” “The Shifting Whispering Sands” “I Ride and Old Paint” “A Letter From Home” “Mean As Hell” “Mr. Garfield” “The Blizzard” “Sweet Betsy From Pike” “Stampede” These are songs that hearken back to a time that is largely lost from the American experience. Listening to Cash’s voice as you travel through the parched landscape of western Washington somehow enriches the experience and begins to put you in the mindset of the people who first traveled the Oregon trail.
Neko Case. She has a unique voice and guitar style and is one of the few artists today who give you a hint of the soul of artists of the era of Cash, the first Hank Williams, Merle Haggard, etc. I had her album, “Fox Confessor Brings the Flood” and set the iPod on repeat for half a day of riding.

Most Sheryl Crow. She sometimes has an older country feel in her rock that makes me think of a modern version of some of the artists listed above although she does not hold a candle to Neko Case. And sometimes her music is just simply frivolous and fun. Unfortunately, she engages in lapses of judgment that cause her to undertake duets with the likes of Kid Rock.

Stevie Ray Vaughan. I am from Texas. Enough said.

Anything by Jack Johnson with the possible exception of the “Curious George” soundtrack. Jack Johnson’s lilting, easygoing guitar work is good to listen to and makes you forget about the wind and the hills and you just keep going.

Lisa Loeb. I know. You are thinking, “He is just going soft on us.” She has a nice voice and I like a lot of her lyrics. She also seems like old country sometime.

Tracy Chapman. Depressing but real. The kind of reality that is indicative of the “Old West” but updated for the modern times we live in.

Early Jewell and later Natalie Merchant. Both of these are essentially folksingers who go well with cycling through the west as they sing what are essentially ballads although Natalie Merchant’s are more closely tied to the land. The album “Motherland” is a good choice.

And of course, the soundtrack from “O Brother, Where Art Thou”. This is a great album for riding with a few exceptions. “Po Lazarus”, while a great song beautifully executed, has too plodding a rhythm for cycling. Plus, you don’t want the image of a chain gang in you head as you go. “In The Highways” by Sarah, Hannah and Leah Peasall is just too irritatingly cute for me to stand. But the rest of the album is great. Nothing beats “Big Rock Candy Mountain” as you are passing through the endless wheat fields of western Washington. “Keep On The Sunny Side” works anytime you are feeling tired. “Oh Death” sung by Ralph Stanley is profound in the middle of the Big Hole in Montana where many American military and Nez Perce Indians died in pointless warfare in 1877.

Anything from the Bare Naked Ladies mainly because “they have a good beat and are easy to bike to”.

Bitter, Bitter Weeks. Brian McTear’s wailing voice and raw guitar work just really do it for me sometimes.

Killbilly. A group I listened to (mostly live) when I was in graduate school. They played at the Dry Gulch (the now closed bar in the basement of the Union at UTA) often. Summarized at one time as “blue grass played as loud and fast as humanly possible” really works. Too bad I don’t have more of their music but I couldn’t afford CDs when in grad school.


What doesn’t work so well?

Harry Chapin. Something about the syrupy sweet, saccharine sentimentality of his music must have appealed to me when I was an undergraduate but just makes me press the forward button now. One exception: “Roses Are Red”, a song about educational philosophy.

I have to say that Billy Joel, one of my all time favorite artists just didn’t do it for me. Perhaps too self absorbed for this particular trip although there are other time in life when I can just immerse myself in his music. Maybe if I had “Songs From The Attic” on the iPod I would feel differently. But alas, I only have the vinyl.

Most of what I consider “pop”. Michelle Branch, even when teamed up with Carlos Santana, just made me want to toss my trail mix. As a matter of fact, I found myself in a pretty bad state of affairs when the iPod finally died because I was stuck with FM radio. Most “Top 40” stations were just terrible (I typically listen to NPR when at home). Any station that is attempting to be “all things to all people” is probably going to be bad (nothing against the Apostle Paul). Beaver 98 (yes, a real radio station out of Dillon, Montana) is a classic example. Because it is the only radio station within about 90 miles, it bills itself as country but lays a wide variety of country (and by this I mean cross-over country) and pop so that, at any given moment, you are offending 50% of the population that will be leased with the next selection while piss off the half that was pleased a moment ago. The only reason anyone listens to this must be that there really is no other choice. At one point I actually tuned in to an AM station that had a show called “Agri-Talk” where they were discussing whether certain breeds of dogs were truly more aggressive than others with a real veterinarian. It was better than anything else on the dial and that is saying something. Any station that claims to play music from 3 or more decades should also be avoided.

I was also struck by the apparent proliferation of Christian radio stations. There were some sections of North Dakota where five stations were available and four of them were Christian and the other was new country. Back to Agri-Talk!

One bright spot on the music scene. When I got to Pierre, South Dakota (state motto: Carved mountains; No cell phone coverage), I ate a Mad Mary’s Steak House and they were playing country from the 50s, 60s and early 70s and I felt like I was back in the 1969 Ford Pickup listening to my dad’s 8 tracks. I talked to my dad that night and we talked about, among other things, the plight of country music. He always thought that the good old days were not all that good, except where country music was concerned. One point on which we always agreed.

27 August 2006

Left Helena at 8:45. There was a long climb about 9 miles out of town and then a long downhill to a road called Recreational Road. This is a road that follows Little Prickly Pear Creek until it flows into the Missouri River. It is windy with short hills and really pretty. There are lots of people floating the river, fishing, etc. There are also tons of campgrounds along the way, most not mentioned in the book I am using as a guide. The last portion into Great Falls was not as nice. Passed the turnoff to Yellowstone National Park (lots of miles away to the south).

I stayed in the most charmless of tent sites at a primarily RV Park. The tent sites are on a 30 x 50 meter plot of grass behind a storage shed, some abandoned cars and a trash compactor. It is near a new strip mall with a Barnes and Noble and a movie theater. I am basically camping on the edge of sprawl.

26 August 2006

Three Forks, Montana to Helena, Montana. 75 miles. The wind died down somewhat last night. Covered the first 32 miles in about 2.5 hours. I hit about 6 miles of construction right out of Three Forks. I met a guy named Bob Peterson who had pulled over to fix a flat. I had passed two riders about five minutes earlier and they were with Bob’s group. They are from Iowa and are doing the Lewis and Clark Trail in two week stints. He had what he needed so I pushed on after chatting with him for a few moments about his trip and mine. He promised me a beautiful ride to Great Falls.

I crossed the Missouri River for the first time today (see photo). I surprised myself with how happy it made me feel to finally see it. From here on out, if I am accompanied by a river, it will more than likely be the Missouri. After Townsend, there were some long gradual hills but it was a pretty fast day of riding. Helena was a pretty tough town lodging-wise. The camping areas are pretty far from the city and expensive. No internet access either. Bummer.

Saturday, September 16, 2006

16 September 2006 - Lampasas, Texas

I learned on Monday, September 11, 2006, that my father had died of a heart attack. I had just arrived in Sioux City, Iowa and was about to visit the Seargeant Floyd Visitor Center when I called Tac and got the news.

On Tuesday, I rode south for 65 miles while she rode north and we met up in Mondamin, Iowa where I loaded the bike and headed back to Liberty. On Wednesday, we drove to Texas. Services were on Thursday and we are headed back to Liberty today.

My plan is to resume the trip to St. Louis on Tuesday and then come back to pick up the three days I did not bike from Mondamin, Iowa to Liberty the week after the 23rd of September.

I want to thank those of you who contacted me with your thoughts and prayers. Please keep my mother and family in your prayers.

My other plan is to convert a bunch of my field notes to computer on the ride home so I can start updating the blog tomorrow. So, look for updates coming out soon (tomorrow afternoon, 17 September).

Thanks,

Paul

Friday, September 01, 2006

A message from Tac

Don't miss out on your chance to become part of this story - let Paul know you are reading his blog by sending in your comments. I know he enjoys hearing from people! He'll be home in 3 weeks. BTW, he didn't ask me to say this, but he did give me his password, which I'm sure he'll be changing promptly once he sees this post:)

25 August 2006

Cold front blew in last night. Windy and fairly cool. I fought head winds all the way to Whitehall and then cross winds all the to Cardwell. I saw a doe in the Jefferson River and, when she finally spooked, I noticed that there was a buck hidden in the vegetation at the water’s edge. I also saw an osprey flying away from the Jefferson River with a fish in its left talon.

At Cardwell there was no sign directing you to Montana Highway 2. I went a few miles down a road that looked like it was going to the right place . I stopped at a bar in La Hood and asked if they could tell me if I was lost. The bar tender said, “If you’re here, you are definitely lost.” I was actually on the right road. It went through this beautiful canyon that was devoid of people and even fences. Great scenery and a 10 mile break from the wind.

I climbed out of the canyon and the winds (cross this time) were back. The funny thing about wind is that there are winds you like (tail winds), winds you really don’t like (head winds) and winds that can kill you (cross winds). At one point, a truck came by and the wind it created coupled with the cross wind, hit me so hard that it felt like I had actually been punched in the face. The shoulder was non-existent and there was a guardrail right next to the road. With the cross winds, I could have easily been bounced out into traffic. A pretty dangerous day of riding. It also took me 7.5 hours to ride 60 miles. I passed Patterson Homestead State Park, home of the Prairie Rattlesnake (see photos). It seems like a depressing homestead although it might have been nicer when it was inhabited. I like the sod roof.

I arrived in Three Forks where Lewis and Clark had to decide which river was the one to follow. They also had to make this decision at the confluence of the Missouri and the Marias River north of Great falls and in Twin Bridges at the confluence of the Beaverhead, Big Hole and Ruby Rivers. Unfortunately, it is too flat here to actually see the confluence except from and airplane.